This is part 4 of our Film Fun series, in which I walk you through scanning medium format 120 film into the computer.
The podcast released for this episode is just an iPhone optimized low-resolution version of the full-sized video, which will enable you to view during your commute etc. but to see any detail, it’s best to view the full-sized video below.
Here’s a rundown of the entire Film Fun series.
- Part #1 – Loading and Unloading a Yashica-D TLR Camera with 120 Medium Format Film (see here)
- Part #2 – Feeding 120 Film into a Paterson Reel for Developing (see here)
- Part #2b – Feeding 120 Film into a Paterson Reel inside the Changing Bag (see here)
- Part #3 – Developing a Roll of ILFORD 120 Black and White Film (see here)
- Part #4 – Scanning Medium Format 120 Film (video below)
Although I shot film for around 20 years until around 2000, I never had the chance to develop my own, so this whole experience has been very new to me and a LOT of fun. I have much more experience scanning film though, so this video is perhaps the one which I am most confident of the content, but I have enjoyed the entire process, and I hope you’ve enjoyed joining me on this initial Film Fun journey.
Here are the links to all of the products required for this process on B&H Photo. You can help to support the podcast by using these links. Use this link if you don’t see the products below: https://mbp.ac/bhfdp
Film Related Posts
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Show Notes
See this video on our Vimeo channel here: https://vimeo.com/martinbailey
See our Recommended Film Developing Products page on B&H: https://mbp.ac/bhfdp
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Download the low-res Podcast in MP4 Video Format.
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8 Comments
Charlie
Posted at 03:29h, 07 JulyCool Stuff. Thanks for taking the time to podcast this little series. I was surprised you use the epson scan software since so many people don’t like it. I use epson scan software for some and perfectcolors photoshop plug in for some. It all depends on the negative or my mood.
thanks again 🙂
Charlie
Martin Bailey
Posted at 08:59h, 07 JulyYou’re welcome Charlie!
You know, I looked into some other software, but as this really isn’t something I’ll be doing a lot now, I don’t think it’s worth buying something else. Plus, if other listeners buy or own an Epson scanner, this is already available to them.
Alex Saunders
Posted at 04:10h, 12 AugustThanks for sharing your experience in the four part series. Videos were great, look forward to seeing more in the future.
Martin Bailey
Posted at 16:21h, 29 AugustYou’re welcome Alex. I’m pleased you enjoyed these.
Luc Renambot
Posted at 01:48h, 10 JulyWouldn’t output to 16bit gray or 48bit color output, or you didn’t notice any difference with 8bit output ?
Martin Bailey
Posted at 16:22h, 29 AugustI don’t understand your question Luc. I used 24-bit color, which is plenty. Where do you get 8bit output from?
renambot
Posted at 10:12h, 15 SeptemberBasically 8 bit per channel. My gut feeling would be to scan at 16-bit grayscale since it’s a B&W negative.
Not sure if there’s more information in the color channels (probably depends on the hardware and driver handling of the data).
In the old days, some people would scan 16-bit per channel in color (48-bit image) and maybe keep only the green channel (more noise on the other channels supposedly). Or do a “Silver Efex” process on the RGB data.
Just wondering…
Martin Bailey
Posted at 14:08h, 15 SeptemberAah, I see. I’m using color because the negatives are not 100% black and white. They have a very subtle sepia tone in them that I do not want to remove by scanning in B&W.