Developing Your Style and Self-Acceptance (Podcast 635)

Developing Your Style and Self-Acceptance (Podcast 635)

In this week’s post, I’m going to relay my thoughts on spending lots of time on lengthy post-processing techniques to “improve” our images, or more accurately, what I do to avoid spending this time, including some self-acceptance advice, based on communication with a listener.

This episode was spurred by a recent email exchange with listener Evan Stewart from Saint Louis, Missouri, so I want to start by thanking Evan for the mail, your questions, and providing some food for thought.

In the exchange, Evan asked how much I use Photoshop and mentioned that he is at the point in his photography where he can’t help being curious about trying more advanced techniques such as focus stacking, exposure blending, and luminosity masking, and was asking if I used some of these techniques in my own photography. My reply may well be useful to others, so I decided to share and expand on that reply here on the blog.

Personal Preference

To set the stage and relay a kind of disclaimer about what I’ll follow on to, I will start by saying what I said to Evan in a follow-up to my main reply, which is that some people feel as though they must spend hours on a photo to make it good, and I feel for them. Aimed at anyone that spends a lot of time on images, I do understand that some people simply enjoy working on images.

I personally do not, which is why I shoot and process the way I do, as I’ll explain shortly, but I can spend hours on my computer doing other things. It’s all personal preference, so please understand that what I’m going to talk about today is not condemning anyone for spending time on images if that’s what you like doing.

If however, you find yourself spending a lot of time working on images to recuse them, and the time spend is putting pressure on you, it may well be time wasted, so I hope that what I’ll relay today will help you to save some of that time, so that you can spend it doing something else more enjoyable.

How Often Do I Use Photoshop?

In reply to Evan’s question about how much I use Photoshop to process my images, I said that I do use Photoshop to work on my photos very rarely. Probably less than 0.1% of my images are edited outside of Capture One Pro, but when they are, I use Photoshop. I used to edit some of my images in the Nik Software suite, named Silver Efex Pro and Color Efex Pro, but I haven’t used these applications at all since switching to Capture One Pro just over two years ago now. Some of the effects that I was getting can be done in Photoshop, but I did like the results I was getting with Nik until Capture One Pro gave me an alternative that I liked.

Time Spent on Image Processing

Partly because of how I shoot, I actually spend less than 30 seconds on the vast majority of my images. Occasionally I shoot something that requires more work, say for example if there are power lines running through a scene, and I decide to shoot it anyway, this kind of photo would require more work, but even then I generally don’t spend more than five minutes or so.

I understand that how little I do may result in my images not being quite as impactful as some of the work of the other photographer’s but this is my style, and I personally enjoy my results. As I’ve mentioned before, I’m under no delusions that I’m some kind of amazing photographer, but I do make work that I am happy with, and for the vast majority of photographer’s out there, I think this is a good place to be in our work.

Content, Not Complacent

Having said that, I also think it’s important to make a distinction between being content with our work and being complacent. Being content leave room for improvement, and I’m always on the look-out for a better photograph, and ways to improve my work, but I want to make those changes in the field, during the creation of the images, not after the event on my computer. 

Complacency, on the other hand, leaves no room for improvement, and this is a place that I never want to be. Even though I shoot some locations every year, there is always an opportunity to improve, and being self-critical is vitally important to that process, and for me, this self-criticality starts in the field, while I still have a chance to change my raw materials, literally my raw images.

Raw, Not RAW

That statement reminds me of a time when Jeffrey Friedl, who you may know for his amazing Lightroom Plugins, pulled me up for spelling raw in capitals, like an acronym. Jeffrey is probably one of the most knowledgeable people I know and realized I’d been getting this wrong when he told me that raw images literally are just raw, as in not cooked, rather than R.A.W. actually meaning something.

It doesn’t help that most camera manufacturers and many people in the industry use RAW, but I can say with my hand on my heart that since Jeffrey explained this to me, I have not only always used the lower case raw, but I think I’ve had a deeper appreciation for what raw images really are, and this also leads nicely to one of the main reasons that I work hard not to make copies of my images in a format that takes me away from my raw files.

Non-Destructive Editing

The moment you export and edit your images in a program like Photoshop, or the Nik plugins, you will eventually end up saving your image in a format other than your original raw image format, and once you do that, you lose the ability to easily update your photographs to the latest and greatest versions of the processing engines that come with your chosen image editing and management software. I use Capture One Pro, but this is the same with Lightroom and many other applications that are what we call “non-destructive”. 

When I first started using Capture One Pro just over two years ago, it was at version 9, and since then, there have been two major releases taking us to version 11, and both of these releases have brought improved image processing with an updated processing engine. When I first processed the image that we’ll look at in a moment, I had some cloning to do that was not possible in Lightroom, so my only option at the time was to take my image into Photoshop to do my editing. This was one of the rare times when I round-tripped out of Lightroom and ended up with a PSD file with my changes baked in.

I resented the time I’d spent in Photoshop though within just a few weeks. I’d taken my original photo into Silver Efex Pro and converted it to black and white, but as I lived with the image I realized that I’d made the trunks of the trees in the foreground a little too dark. I had to go back into Silver Efex Pro and reprocess it, and that meant that I had to also go back into Photoshop and clone out the cable car lines a second time. This felt like such a waste of time to me.

Then, a few months later, in the summer of 2016 I switched to Capture One Pro, and during my initial tests of the product, I used the same image to see if I could both create black and white images that were as good if not better than Silver Efex Pro, and I checked to see if I could do cloning in Capture One Pro, so that I could avoid baking my changes into a destructive file format rather than keeping them in their original raw format.

It turned out that Capture One Pro passed both of these tests, so I now had a copy of my original raw file with all of the cloning done in Capture One and so when versions 10 and then 11 came out, I just clicked a button to update the processing engine, and the image grew incrementally better with more subtle detail and better handling of the shadows. I was able to improve my photo twice, with no more effort than a couple of mouse clicks, simply because I had been able to keep my image in its original raw format, so this is a major time-saver and benefit.

My “No See, No Edit” Policy

Let’s take a look at the image I’m referring to as we start to discuss more of the methods that I use to help improve my photography and save me time in post-processing. Since I started shooting digital back in 2000 I made a conscious decision to kill two birds with one stone. I’m not a purist in the sense that I will not clone anything out of my images, but I don’t like to make the decision to do so lightly. I want to modify the content of my images based a deliberate, conscious decision.

Couple with a desire to create images that require as little as possible work on the computer, I decided to train myself to be more observant in the field, by sticking to my personal policy not removing anything that I was not aware of when I exposed the photograph. If I didn’t see it in the field, I do not allow myself to change it later in postprocessing.

What this means is that if I see the cable car lines running through a scene, I am OK with removing them later, but if I do not see the cable car lines or anything else distracting in the image until I get it onto my computer, I do not allow myself to remove the distraction. I’m left with two options, live with the annoying element, or throw the image out, and 99% of the time I go with the latter option.

To illustrate this, here’s a photograph from Mount Asahi in Hokkaido, with the lines of the cable car running through the scene. I knew about these when I composed the photograph but liked this scene so much that I decided to spend the time to remove them later. There is actually also a large pillar to support the cables, but I positioned my camera so that I hid that behind the third foreground tree from the left. Another decision that I made to help save me time on the computer.

To see the cable cars on the left side of the photo, grab the vertical line in the middle and drag it over to the left side of the image. You’ll see the cables behind the trees across most of the left side of the photograph. Another minor benefit of keeping my images in raw is that I could show you the processed black and white image today, and just turn off the cloning adjustments for the before/after images.

I have found though that my policy of not allowing myself to remove anything that I didn’t see when I initially made the photo has really helped me to be more deliberate in my compositions. There were times when I had to throw out images that I otherwise really liked, so I soon learned that I had to do better. It’s surprising how much a little self-kicking can do. I really recommend it to all photographers.

No Exposure Blending

Evan had asked if I had come to peace with not using any exposure blending techniques, but for me, it’s not so much a case of coming to peace with not using techniques like exposure blending, I really just don’t believe it’s necessary. Part of this in my case is because I don’t often shoot in very bright weather that might cause really high contrast images, but apart from a few times well over ten years ago, when our cameras weren’t as capable as they are now, I really just haven’t photographed any scenes that in my mind needed more than one frame to capture the necessary dynamic range.

Part of this is also my own sense of the aesthetic. You might remember me talking about this photo (below) earlier this year about how I often let the windows go white in my Namibia work from Kolmanskop. This is not because I’m too lazy to take multiple shots and blend them together, but because I really just prefer to see the images that way. It leaves more to the imagination and to me, feels a little more surreal than a photo where we can see both the inside of the room and the exterior perfectly exposed.

Kolmanskop Accountant's Bathroom
Kolmanskop Accountant’s Bathroom

Similarly, I don’t mind in this photograph that the walls are leaning outwards from the angle that I shot this. That is not to say that I never do any keystone adjustments mind. I do, but only when the effects that I a remove are a distraction for me. I think people sometimes feel that they have to remove any and all form of distortion, and again, that’s each individuals decision to make, but personally, I don’t feel that every photograph has to be absolutely perfect in this respect.

Don’t Deliberate, Be Deliberate!

In complete contradiction to that sense of not caring for the above image though, I should note that I do quite often take the time to ensure that my camera is at just the right height to prevent my vertical lines from leaning in at least part of the time. This falls under my heading of being deliberate. I find it ironic that the same word pronounced differently has both ends of the spectrum covered for me in this respect.

I won’t “deliberate” over some issues, such as leaning walls, or spending hours on images in post, but I absolutely will be “deliberate” and take the time necessary to craft my compositions, so that everything is just as I want it, as I did for this photo (below) where I moved the frame on the floor to a more pleasing location and spent extra time ensuring that my camera was at the right height to get all of the vertical lines perfect straight.

Kolmanskop School Corridor
Kolmanskop School Corridor

I guess it’s also ironic that I completely don’t care that we can’t see everything outside the windows to the right in this shot as well. I think my point is, once again, that we have to develop a sense of what we are happy with, and in many respects, this takes time and confidence in our work.


As I think about this for today’s post, I realize that Evan’s email to me that prompted this post had a more appropriate subject than I had initially thought. I started this post with a different title, but as I write, I’ve adopted the subject of Evan’s mail, which was “Developing your Style and Self-Acceptance”.

In some areas of my photography, I’m a stickler for getting it right and ensuring that everything is perfect, but in other areas, I simply decide to not give a hoot, and that really does come from reaching a point where you can not care what other people think. Having the confidence to say that it is simply not important to be able to see what’s outside, and deciding that the walls are leaning outwards doesn’t matter, comes from having a strong sense of self-acceptance.

The Roll of Your Trusted Critique

If you listen to everything that everyone will tell you it can be quite paralyzing, as you really will never be able to please everyone. This is where the significance of your trusted critique comes into play, and equally important, is developing the ability to ignore the words of the untrusted critique.

I’ve mentioned a number of times in the past that my wife is who I consider my main “Trusted Critique”, although there are a few others around the world whose advice I will head. Whenever I have a decision to make about my photography or any other creative pursuit for that matter, I don’t consider my work to be complete until I’ve run it past my wife. Her advice means everything to me, but I should note that I don’t take on board everything she says.

There are times when I like something that she doesn’t, and at the end of the day, it’s my art, and I have the final word, but for example, if I’m working on a set of images, say a portfolio, or a selection of work to send a client, nine times out of ten, if she says that something has to go, it goes. A lot of the time, I use her opinion to check my own suspicions, and over the years, I’ve learned to preempt her advice, and simply remove images that I know she will dislike.

Cooling Off Period

I also recall a story from my good friend Graham Morgan, an award-winning photographer from Australia, who was on his way home from Antarctica and showed his wife a photo that he was about to delete but she told him to keep it. The following year he won the Australia Nature Photographer of the Year with that photo! This is a powerful reminder of the need to seek advice from a trusted critique.

It’s also an important reminder that making the final decision on photos that we’ve shot straight after shooting them isn’t always a good idea. Giving yourself at least a few days, ideally a week or more after a shoot to make a more subjective decision about your work is very important.

When I return from a trip, I generally want to start talking about it within just a few days, so I force myself to complete at least a preliminary cull as soon as possible after getting home, but then I always continue to refine the selection for another week or two until I make my final selection. Invariably I find that as the memory of the shoot fades slightly, I am able to be more ruthless in my selection, and the more we can remove from a selection, the more condensed and rich the final set will be.

Controlling Exposure for Optimal Dynamic Range

As I mentioned earlier, in part of my reply to Evan, I had also stated that if you are careful with your exposure, you can generally get a better quality image from a single frame than from blending. Now, I realize that there are techniques that can help to blend images together without really being able to tell it was done, but the majority of the time they require more work than I personally am prepared to put into each individual images, so once again, this is personal preference.

My advice to people has always been that if using exposure blending or any other HDR techniques feeds your creativity, then go for it. If however, you are doing it to overcome limitations on your camera, then first learn how to expose your photos to get maximum dynamic range in a single image, then decide whether or not you need HDR. Once you get used to looking at the histogram, there isn’t even any guess-work. You can see right on the back of your camera if the image fits in a single frame, simply by referencing your histogram.

Exposing To The Right (ETTR)

Now, I’ve talked about ETTR or Exposing To The Right a number of times in the past, so I’m not going to go into great detail on this, but I want to summarise why I still do it, and a few other considerations that you might keep in mind if you are still formulating your own strategy.

First of all, I want to mention that thanks to the wisdom received from Graeme Nattress, who’s forgotten more about image processing than I’ll ever know, I’m no longer talking about the cause of noise in images based on the old Luminous Landscape article that used to be my primary reference. Graeme helped me to understand that the old explanation is not valid, but also that the benefits of Exposing to the Right are very real all the same.

I have though been Exposing to the Right instinctively for many years though, and experience has proved to me that my images are better quality for it, so I’m still using this technique for almost all of my work.

Basically, what I do exposure all of my images so that the lightest part of the histogram data falls just short if not slightly touching the right shoulder of the histogram. On the rare occasion when I find myself photographing a scene with the sun in the frame, I will allow it to become over-exposed slightly, to give myself some leeway in the shadows, but even then, one frame generally gives me enough dynamic range.

As an example, here’s a photo (below) of a lighthouse with the late afternoon sun shining through the windows of the lantern room, shot on this year’s Hokkaido Landscape Photography Tour. When looking through the viewfinder, as you might imagine, everything except the sun looked almost completely black. I could see from the histogram though, that if I set my exposure so that the sun is just starting to over-expose, the shadows were not spiking up the left shoulder.

Again, this is a comparison image, so you can slide the vertical bar from left to right to reveal more of the final processed image on the left, to see how much detail I brought out in the bottom third of the photograph. All I did was ran a gradient mask over the bottom third and opened up the shadows slider to around half way. I also pulled out the shadows across the entire image with a very slight tone curve adjustment and placed a second gradient mask across the top of the sky to darken it down a little. This isn’t the greatest image I’ve shot by a long shot, but I think it helps to illustrate my point.

Reading the Histogram

Basically, expose so that the information on the right of the histogram is just about, or in this case, just touching the right shoulder, and check to see if you have a spike on the left side. If you do see a spike on the left side, it means that the shadows are going completely black, which, similar to highlights going completely white means that it might be difficult or even impossible, to recover any detail in these areas. As long as the shadows on the left side are not spiking though, there is detail in the shadows that can be used.

Noshappu Lighthouse Photo Histogram
Noshappu Lighthouse Photo Histogram

Do also be aware that the camera’s histogram is generally based on the JPEG preview, so it tells a somewhat harsher story than your image processing software probably will. Both Lightroom and Capture One Pro give you around a stop of light back, compared to how the images look on the camera. 

I also use a piece of software called RawDigger to check my images, especially ones like this, to see what the image really looks like, and I can also create a very details histogram, such as this one (right) that I got from the original raw file of the photo we just looked at.

In the RawDigger histogram, we can see a small spike on the right side of the histogram, which represents the bright sky around the sun that I overexposed slightly. On the left you can see that the shadow data tapers off nicely, showing that there is a little bit of information lost, but enough to be able to bring out detail in the shadows.

I don’t have a photo of the histogram on the camera, but here two are two histograms from Capture One Pro with the original raw file on the left and the processed raw file on the right. You can see how the shadows were steep and close to the left shoulder, but not spiking. Also, note the small spike in the highlights for the sun, but see how I was able to bring that under control in Capture One Pro. Going over a little bit is rarely a problem, but we do need to avoid going over by a large amount.


So, as you can see, using the histogram as a tool can really help to make educated decisions about your exposure. Based just on the image, or even just what you see through the viewfinder, you might think that a scene like the Lighthouse sunset would need multiple exposures merged together, or even HDR processing, but in my opinion it really isn’t necessary, unless, as I mentioned, you actually enjoy the process and that process feeds your creativity. 

For me, there is nothing more off-putting than getting home from a shoot and having to spend hours working on images, and as fast as the process may have become, as far as I’m aware, there are still no applications that will allow you to keep a processed and tone-mapped HDR image in raw format, so you cannot benefit from future processing engine updates.

Don’t Fight Your ISO

That example was for a high contrast scene, but as I said, I Expose to the Right for all of my work, and I have received feedback from people that know, that the quality of my images is higher than most, and we attribute this to the way I shoot, taking control of my exposure. 

Basically, the darker your images get, the more noise you’ll see in the shadows. I have talked about ISO Invariance in Episode 520, and I agree that if your base ISO could be ISO 100 you can increase the exposure in post for a number of stops, and really not see a lot of degradation in image quality. This means that especially when you are running and gunning and the light is changing so fast that manual exposure may cause you to miss shots, you can go to an automated mode and then brighten up the images in post if necessary.

This is only the case though if the scene is bright enough that ISO 100 would get you to within two or three stops of your required exposure. Once your scene is so dark that you ISO 100 does not get you to within two or three stops of your necessary exposure, the only option is to increase the ISO, and when you start to increase your ISO, you can’t benefit from ISO invariance. Your only option for darker scenes is to increase your ISO and if you are afraid to increase it high enough to essentially expose to the right, getting the histogram data as close to the right shoulder as possible, then your shadows are going to get noisy.

Use Highlight Warnings

Another thing that I want to add here, is that it’s also important to turn on and use the Highlight Warnings or “blinkies” in your camera so that you are made aware when small areas of the scene or subject start to become over-exposed.

Himba Smile
Himba Smile

For example, when photographing the dark-skinned Himba people inside their huts in Namibia, their eyes, teeth, and shells around their neck start to overexpose as you increase the ISO, but it’s virtually impossible to see this on the histogram. You have to check for these areas blinking in the preview image, or if you are using a mirrorless camera, some of them have these warnings in the electronic viewfinder too.

Some people make the mistake of trying to get the peak or hump of the histogram over to the right side, but when shooting images like this one of the young Himba Girl (left), that will result in her eyes, teeth, and regalia all becoming overexposed, and although just a little is fine and controllable, we don’t want to overexpose these areas too much.

To be clear though, the goal is to increase the exposure to the point where the brightest parts of the scene or subject are as close to the right as possible, but not overexposed, and sometimes, this requires us to increase the ISO so much that some people start to back off.

This image was shot at ISO 5000, and that scares some people, but because I was still essentially exposing to the right, until the bright areas started to overexpose, the shadows still have almost no grain to speak of, and this is with a 50 megapixel camera, which was supposed to be really bad in low light. The reality is that even with such high-resolution cameras, if you push the ISO to the point that you need it to be at to give you an ETTR image, then the shadow areas will still be clean enough to give you a useable image.

You might also recall that this is one of the ten images that I printed at 44 x 62 inches for display in an exhibition at Canon’s Headquarters here in Tokyo, and the feedback I’ve received is that people were very surprised that this image was shot at such a high ISO, and they were looking at a five foot tall print, so I think that’s proof enough that my technique has helped me to create images of a pretty high quality, often in somewhat challenging environments.

The "Namibia" Wall
The “Namibia” Wall

Manual Exposure

This may be obvious already, and I certainly mention this a lot, but just to be thorough, I should also mention that I shoot almost exclusively in Manual Exposure mode. I just find this easier, as it enables me to get my camera set up for a specific scene, exposing to the right, and then just shoot, without having to worry about exposure compensation, which I find completely annoying. 

I know that some people like to just let the camera decide, and if your scene is bright enough that ISO Invariance will help you to brighten up your images as necessary without losing any image quality, you really won’t be negatively affected by shooting in an automated mode. For me though, I’ve been shooting Manual for so long, that it’s just more intuitive, and second nature.

The Manuals Were Wrong

Another thing that I wanted to talk about, with regards to using ETTR techniques to get better quality images, is that sometimes people quote the camera manuals, that often say that a good histogram has one large hump, and that should be in the middle of the histogram. Forget this if it’s something you tend to bear in mind, for two reasons. Firstly, having the data in the middle of the histogram may result in unnecessary noise in your images, especially in the shadow or dark areas. 

The other reason is that the histogram represents a mapping of all the tones in the image. It is not uncommon for a histogram to have multiple spikes. This image, for example, has a spike on the right side, that represents all the white in the crane’s and the snow, and a spike of the left, for the dark background. And there is nothing in the middle, which is where the camera manuals will have you believe the data should be.

Cranes Taking Flight (with Histogram)
Cranes Taking Flight (with Histogram)

Of course, as a guideline, for an average scene, it’s not a complete failure as an example, but it’s important to understand what the histogram represents so that it can be used as a tool to work towards shooting images of higher quality, rather than allowing something you’ve been told to lead you to make mistakes.

OK, so the last thing I want to relay is that it is also not necessary to try and have your image data fill the histogram. Some scenes do not contain a wide enough range of tones to create a full histogram from the left to right side. As an extreme example, and to make one last point, here (below) is another snow scene from Hokkaido.

See if you can guess where the histogram spike will be for this image, then drag that vertical bar over to the left to reveal the embedded histogram and see how close you were. 


Let’s start to wrap this up now, with a few last words on why I put this post together. I kept Evan’s part about developing a style in the title, even though we didn’t go into detail on this, because I think that the way I shoot plays a large part in the look of my work. I don’t I have a distinctive style that comes from a type of processing, because as I’ve said, most of the time it isn’t the processing that defines my work. That in itself is, to me, one of the most important things that I wanted to relay today. 

I’ve been told that people can tell my work, because of the quality of the images, and I like to think that this is because of the care I take in setting my exposure, and how careful I am to compose my images in such a way that they contain as few distracting elements as possible. A lot of my work is somewhat if not straight on minimalist, but rarely cluttered, and I think these things all inform my style.

I’ll stop writing for now though, and get this out there. I’ve already been writing for a day and a half, but there is still so much more to say related to this topic. I’ll try to follow up next week with a discussion of some of the things that I consider as I decide on my compositions, as we didn’t really get into that today. If there is anything else that you’d like me to cover, just drop me a line or write a comment below. I always enjoy hearing from you.

Show Notes

My post on ISO Invariance is here:

Music by Martin Bailey


Subscribe in iTunes for Enhanced Podcasts delivered automatically to your computer.

Download this Podcast in MP3 format (Audio Only).

Download this Podcast in Enhanced Podcast M4A format. This requires Apple iTunes or Quicktime to view/listen.

Apps to Help You Work Faster (Podcast 620)

Apps to Help You Work Faster (Podcast 620)

I’m often asked how I get so much done, so this week I’m going to share some information about some of the tools that I use daily to speed up my work.

We should preface this, by mentioning that I get a lot done because I work hard. I actually think I’m working a little too hard, as I hate to just sit around. Relaxing to me is not really very, well, relaxing. I don’t work every waking hour of course, and I do enjoy making time to practice playing the piano or learn new skills, but there is always something to be done to help me get ahead in my business, and I tend to go back to these tasks quickly, and perhaps a little too often.

That aside though, let’s talk about some of the apps I use to speed up the tasks that I do. My motivation to look for these apps generally starts with an action or task that I need to repeat. As I’ve mentioned in the past, in my photography workflow, if there is anything that needs to be done more than once, I create a preset for it. For example, Capture One Pro automatically creates the directory structure to drop my images into on import. There’s a preset to help me with renaming my files on import too. Whenever I lay out a new paper size to print on or different margin settings, I save a new preset. 

Luckily our photography related software has the ability to create presets built in but there are many other tasks that we repeat daily on the computer that are not easily automated without some extra tools, and it’s some of these tools that I’d like to talk about today.


Depending on what you do for a living, you might find that you end up typing out similar text again and again. For example, I run around five photography tours each year, with between 10 and 14 participants on each tour. I’ve been running tours since 2008 and I quickly found myself writing out the Welcome email that I send to people when the book quite often. I initially used to just keep a draft of the email for each tour in the Drafts folder in my mail application, but at some point, I moved to a different app that didn’t allow me to copy these drafts, so I looked for an alternative and found TextExpander.

TextExpander New Episode Snippet
TextExpander New Episode Snippet

TextExpander has grown over the years and really is an integral part of much of what I do. Its minimal work case is to create simple shortcuts that expand out into longer text when you type them. The first snippet I created monitors my typing for the four letters “rgds” followed by a space, which it expands out to “Regards, Martin” with a carriage return between the two words. This, of course, is a simple footer that I use when sending an email.

Another snippet that I probably use hundreds of times a week, expands the four letter’s “mbpm” to my email address, and I have lots of others for static words and phrases that I use a lot.

TextExpander really comes into its own when you start to create more complicated snippets. For example, when I need to start creating a new podcast post, there is a page of code that I always use as a base. I used to keep this in Evernote, which is a good step, but I realized that I can even save the time required to open Evernote and locate my blog post template by simply defining a shortcode in TextExpander that fills the post with my template code. For this, I use “newep” as this is not something that I’m likely to type by accident.

At first, I was just adding the static code, really just taking Evernote out of the loop. Then I realized that because TextExpander allows you to define what it calls Fill-ins, so I could create a snippet that would basically ask me what episode I was creating, and then use the number that I typed in once to populate all of the places in the text that I used this number. I’ve circled these three places in red in this screenshot (right) and sure, it’s only three places, but it saves me the time to locate each number to change and it’s three places that I could also potentially type wrongly.

If we go back to my original example though, with my need to send welcome emails to my tour participants, I initially had just text snippets for each tour. I would go to the TextExpander pulldown and select the email subject, and then move the cursor to the mail body, and select the snippet for the body. Each was different, and because I ran the same tour every year in most cases, I had anything up to twenty to thirty different snippets to cover the subject and body of all my tours.

Then, recently I realized that I could remove all of these, and have just one smart snippet that would take care of all of my tour welcome email. That not only saves me typing these out but also saves me the time required to manage all of these copies. Say if I want to change how I word something, I’d have to go in and copy and paste my change in lots of different snippets.

Expanding Tour Welcome Email Snippet
Expanding Tour Welcome Email Snippet

Here’s what I did. I created a snippet with the shortcode “twe” for “tour welcome email”. Keep in mind that according to my settings, I have to type a space after these three characters to expand the snippet, so typing the word “twelve” or “twenty” isn’t going to trigger the snippet. 

I’m not going to go into detail on how to actually create these dynamic snippets, as the makers of TextExpander have a whole host of videos to help with that, but I did make a brief animated GIF image to show you how smoothly these dynamic snippets work (below). See how I just type my shortcut, then enter the year, select a tour name, and enter the participant’s name, and this information is used multiple times throughout the email. Also, when more than one person book at the same time, I have to ask for multiple copies of our tour participant form to be filled out.

I’ve also added the snippet %filltop% which is a special snippet that you can add to dynamic forms to place all the questions that you need to answer to the top of the form. This saves me from going through the form looking for dynamic fields. Note too that although I start the form in the email Subject line, I added the code %key:tab% which simulated me pressing the tab key, and that moves the cursor down to the body of the mail before expanding the rest of the text.

This is relatively simple stuff, but taking a few minutes to create these simple dynamic emails saves a whole lot of time that I would otherwise spend maintaining lots of templates and then locating them each time I want to use them. I mean, what could be easier than typing three letters?

Copied Clippings
Copied Clippings

TextExpander works on both Mac OS and Windows, and although I don’t use it a lot, they also have an iOS app that works really well. All snippets you create are synchronized across your devices and the iOS app adds a keyboard so that you can easily retrieve your snippets directly into whatever app you’re using. 

If you find this interesting, you can find TextExpander at It’s a subscription-based product costing just $3.33 per month billed annually, and I wouldn’t like to be without it. This post isn’t sponsored in any way either. I’m just telling you about products that I love and use daily.



Moving on, sometimes, it’s not obvious that a piece of text that you copy to your clipboard is going to be needed again, but I used to get frustrated when I’d be working and find myself needing the text that I had on my clipboard a while ago, but since overwrote with a new clipping. Many years ago I tried an application that would assign numbers to clips so that you could retrieve them with multiple shortcuts but I found it complicated to use because it was never obvious which clip was under which shortcut.

Then a few years ago I found an application called Copied, and it changed the way I think about my computer’s clipboard. In its simplest form, Copied simply keeps the text that you copy to your clipboard in a long list. I forget what the default number is, maybe 100, but I have Clipboard set up to save my last 250 clippings, and I found that I reuse my clippings time and time again each day.

The beauty of Copied is that you don’t have to remember any numbers or shortcuts, you just go to the menu bar and click on the icon, and you get a list of your clippings, so you can visually look for what you need to reuse.

If you can remember one word in the clipping you need to retrieve, you can also just search for it. For example, if I search for the acronym “GDPR”, I can see a list of related clipping from the last few days as I’ve been finalizing our GDPR strategy.

Copied Search Results
Copied Search Results

Another great feature is Copied Lists. You can create a list and add clipping that will be stored permanently, for things that you know you’ll use again and again. I have a number of PHP code clippings in one list, and I have another list for my short-links, like to my various lenses on B&H for example, as I retrieve these links quite a lot.

Copied also has iCloud Sync, so I can view clippings from all of my computers and iOS devices from any device. This is great because I can for example just copy the address of a page I was looking at on my iPad, then jump to that page from copied moments later when I get on my iMac. 

I sometimes also use Apple’s Handoff feature which offers me a browser with the page I was looking at on a device sometimes, but it doesn’t always pick up on what I was doing, so Copied is a great way of working between devices, both for links and for all of the clipping that make pretty much continuously through my working day.

Copied is available on the Mac App Store, currently for $7.99, and unfortunately, I don’t think it’s available for Windows, but there is an iOS version as I mentioned.


The third app that I’ve just started using, but finding very useful is a great little utility called Unclutter. I don’t like to have too many files on my computer Desktop. When I’m working on something like a new podcast episode, I might be capturing screenshots, or saving images that I will embed in the post, like today, and as I do this, I often find myself just dropping these onto the desktop, then saving them to a folder to stay organized, but once I’ve completed that episode, I like to file them away. 

Another thing that I find myself doing is grabbing screenshots of things that I want to talk about in future episodes, and these also generally start off on my desktop, but as soon as I see more than a handful of these things, it starts to bother me. If I get to two or three columns of icons on my desktop, it starts to drive me positively crazy, but if I move things completely away from the desktop, they are easily forgotten about. 

Unclutter is again a relatively simple idea, but it’s been designed and implemented really well. Once installed, all you need to do to access it is to move your mouse to the top of the screen and then scroll down. This reveals three columns each with different functionality, as I’ll explain. It’s kind of difficult to see how Unclutter reveals itself in a screenshot, so I created a quick thirty-second video to show you.

Having just discussed Copied, the leftmost column will seem a little redundant, as it’s essentially the same idea. It’s a list of saved clipboard clippings that you can scroll through and click on to retrieve at any time. A nice feature is that when you mouse-over a clipping the icon changes to a star which favorites the clipping when you click it. Then if you click the star at the top right of the clippings column, you get a list just of your favorited clippings.

Right now I’m using Copied more than Unclutter for this feature, but I’m leaving it turned on, for now, to see if I start to gravitate towards Unclutter for at least some of the clippings it holds for me. One limiting factor would be that the most clippings you can save in Unclutter is 50, and believe it or not, you can set Copied to save up to 1,000 clippings. I sometimes have Copied set to save the last 500 clippings, and have never set it lower than 250, and I do sometimes look through the entire list for something.

The right column in Unclutter is a simple memo pad. You can create text memos and recall them easily from a list. You just type them in right there in the app, and it’s a very simple interface, so good for some things. I find myself making short-term notes to myself up here, although my long-term notes are still going into Evernote, which I love and probably won’t give up easily.

Finally, though, the main reason I have started using Unclutter is that center column. I love being able to just drag a file or folder to the top of my screen, causing Unclutter to open up, and then just dropping that file straight into that collapsing space. You can create folders to further organize this area, and I’m finding this really helps me to keep my desktop, well, Uncluttered!

Unclutter Folder Selection
Unclutter Folder Selection

In the Preferences, we can configure the actual folder that is used to be inside Dropbox, so whatever I put into this folder or the subfolders that I have created will automatically be synchronized to my other computers and available via Dropbox on my iOS devices.

I’m finding myself dropping in screenshots for future podcasts, apps that I want to install on my other Macs, and even things like backups of databases, which are only relevant for a few days, before they become old. If I file these away completely they just get forgotten until a major cleanout, but I’m reorganizing this area every few days at the moment, so I can easily remove stale data quickly.

Being able to get at working files quickly, without having to search through scores of icons on a cluttered desktop certainly helps to improve efficiency, and I really just don’t like to work on a messy computer, so I’m really pleased that I received an email about Unclutter last weekend. I learned a thing or two about marketing from the email too, with a photo of the developer and his brother somehow making we want to throw money at them before I’d even finished my breakfast.

You can drag any of these three spaces in Unclutter out to un-dock them, and leave them on your desktop, or drag them around to reorder them. Ultimately I think I’ll probably end up just using the collapsable Files section, but it’s still worth it to me. It feels like I have a big drawer under my physical desk surface that I can just slide open and drop stuff in to get it off of my work surface. You can buy Unclutter either directly from the Unclutter website or from the Mac App Store

Anyway, we’ll wrap it up there for today. As I mentioned earlier, none of these recommendations are sponsored. I’m just sharing information about three applications that save me time and help me to get a lot done. There are others of course, and I’ll follow up about them in due course. For now, if you haven’t heard of these apps and find them useful, that’s great. Also, if you have any apps that help to make your work more efficient, do share a link in the comments below. I’d love to hear what you’re using.

With me leaving to start this year’s Namibia Tour & Workshop in a few days, I’m not sure if I’m going to be able to create any more episodes before I leave, so you may not hear from me for the next couple of weeks, but I’ll be back in the middle of June to share our antics as we roam around that beautiful south-western corner of Africa.

Show Notes


Get Copied on the Mac App Store:

You can find Unclutter here: and

Music by Martin Bailey


Subscribe in iTunes for Enhanced Podcasts delivered automatically to your computer.

Download this Podcast in MP3 format (Audio Only).

Download this Podcast in Enhanced Podcast M4A format. This requires Apple iTunes or Quicktime to view/listen.